Day 9 - slept in Logrono - July 6

Up at 5am, out of the alberge at 5:30am, I was the first one out. I smiled to myself in the dark and thought now that I've done that, I'm never doing it again. It was chilly and the first hour was downright cold but I must say, the sunrise an hour later behind me was spectacular and I was feeling good. Destination Logrono and a hotel room, I was stoked, and I was finally crossing over into the La Rioja wine region.

But then inexplicably, it all started to go wrong.

I was happily walking along, proud of the fact that I beat everyone else out the door and still out there on my own, when I came across a couple of young ruffian looking dudes who turned out to be two nice boys from Belgium. I tried to keep pace with them for awhile and that must've been my undoing. By the time I arrived in picturesque Viana, my legs and specifically my ass, was so sore it was a pain unlike anything I've ever felt in the lower half of my body. I've had pain like that in my back (I have a lower back condition but fortunately my back wasn't bothering me at all) but never in my feet, legs or butt. It was nothing short of agony. So I stopped for a morning Cava and this is when I met Rafael from Spain. I had seen him before but we introduced ourselves outside of the cafe. I also came across Jenn and Phyllis from Connecticut who informed me they were staying in Viana and bussing it to Logrono due to aches and pains. Phyllis said her feet felt like bloodied stumps. I told her I could relate!

The path was steep today and most of my people ended up passing me, including Anna. A few hours into it and I was in excruciating pain. Apparently the hip flexors (butt muscles I never knew I had) get sore because of the backpack and so one is supposed to take smaller steps. By the time I crossed over into the wine-producing region of La Rioja, I could barely walk! My right ass cheek would simply go no further.

I stopped off on the side of The Way when Shai found me and gave me his stick. I was "hurtin for certain" and it helped a lot. He was my angel that day! All I could think was "get to Logrono, get to Logrono." He went on ahead and as soon as I got up and swung my pack over my back, SNAP, the strap broke! "Holy shit" was all I could think to say and there I stood alone, half mad, half sad and totally frustrated. How quickly my mood had changed. I was literally coming apart at the seams! It was all I could do to hold back the tears and keep walking ahead. "Just keep walking, just keep walking..." the Finding Nemo tune of "just keep swimming" was the only thing repeating over and over in my mind and it was making me even more annoyed. Roger from Belgium had explained that there are stages of the Camino: first the physical pain and then the emotional struggle, then there is the stage where you think about who you care about, and lastly the stage where you realize who really cares for you. I was clearly in the physical and entering the emotional.

By the time I descended into the environs of Logrono, I was taking
the shortest, slowest steps of my life. Other pilgrims obviously took pity on me and asked if I was OK. I said yes, what else could I do, even if it took me all day, I had to get to a place and then rest all I wanted there. The outskirts of the city were ugly, there were no cutesy wine-tasting bodegas or cutesy little Spanish cafes, just industrial office parks that were seemingly abandoned. I didn't even know what day it was. And as usual, the last three kilometers proved almost to be my undoing. I barely made it to the pilgrim fountain where I took my shoes off and soaked my feet in the healing waters. I saw another pair of ruffian type dudes who I immediately liked, but not wanting to waste another minute, I headed across the bridge which was just brutal. I thought to myself "tomorrow I'm going to walk back over this bridge like a normal person." I checked in at the first hotel I saw just on the other side, the lovely Hotel Logrono.

The moment I hobbled in, I was greeted by Alexis from Scotland, who had obviously sent her bag here ahead and was speaking a mile a minute to me while I waited in line. I had no patience; I just wanted to check in and disappear for awhile. I was in one of the worst moods since the third morning when I was kicked out of the monastery into the wet morning with my period. I tried to be nice but I finally turned to her and said "Listen, I cannot talk to you right now. I am in pain and I am praying they have a room for me because I literally cannot take another step." She got my drift and backed off. Fortunately they did have a room and I was able to go to it right away. In the ten minutes it took me to get there and unload my gear and take my shoes off, I felt bad about snapping at Alexis so I went back down to the lobby and hung out with her for another hour. Then it was straight to the bath tub and a nap. I think it was the first actual siesta I took.

By the time night came, I headed out to a sports store and bought a new backpack, as well as a new bra, two new pair of socks (I had brought wool socks, what was I thinking!), and a lightweight, long sleeve shirt to protect me from the sun more than for the warmth. I headed back to the hotel and by the time my dinner came, I was too tired to eat it so I took it up to my room and ended up having my steak dinner for breakfast the next morning, which in hindsight turned out to be a good thing since I spent the next day partying all day with my friends. A bunch of them were out and about enjoying the culinary capital of Spain but I was just too spent to join them. All in all I had done 21 kilometers today but it was the fourth hardest day for me, so I told them I'd make it up to them tomorrow.

"When you meet anyone, remember it is a holy encounter. And as you see them, you will see yourself." 
- A Course in Miracles

Day 10 - slept in Logrono (again) - July 7

Up at 10am, checked out of the hotel by 11am and no dry heaves for the first time! I had already decided to stay another day in Logrono to rest and enjoy the local flavor of this charming city. I left my broken green backpack in the room and my green yoga mat (abandoned items 17-18) and headed up to the Logrono Carlton Hotel where I would share a room with Dee, Anna, and Anton. We were all happy for a day of rest! Anton felt my pain because his pack had broken too and he was extra sore because he was going too fast. They all admired our new packs as I was setting out more items to be abandoned including one of my favorite cotton t-shirts, my clothes line, and my two pair of woolen socks (abandoned items 19-22).

I put on the only skirt I had, my black top, the pretty jade necklace I brought, and my flip flops. We immediately set out for afternoon drinks which turned into a tapas / pub crawl and our group gathered force as we met up with friends of friends and a few locals too. The top picture is Anna from Denmark, Dee from Ireland, and Alexis front Scotland. Then there's the picture of Erin from California with Juan from Spain (he's a local, not a pilgrim, and he's the one Anna made out with later :) We also saw Robin from North Carolina, Crystal from Colorado, met Elias from Switzerland and a cute, older Australian couple. The food was phenomenal!! Especially the mushrooms and the potato bravas!! So much fun, the streets were packed with people enjoying the best food and drink yet!!

The older Australian man was a wine connoisseur like myself and so we started talking about wine. I explained how surprised I was to find no bodegas along The Way, no places to do a wine tasting to learn about the varietals of Spain, and no one who was really interested in explaining the wines to someone like me. He said he met a wine aficionado earlier in the day and perhaps she could help us. We set off around the corner to a lovely, dark restaurant and met the proprietress. She showed us her Vinological Certificates prominently displayed on the walls and I praised her for her studies but asked her about a tasting. She said "NO. That's not how it's done in Spain." I tried to tell her now that I had passed through the Irouleguy and Navarra wine country that I would very much like to taste the different Rioja varietals including Alta Rioja, Baja Rioja, and Alavesa Rioja so that I could learn about them and distinguish their characteristics. "NO" she said, "that's not how it's done in Spain." The Australian man and I looked at each other with obvious frustration and I said "I will pay" but another "NO." So I ordered a glass of her most expensive Alta Rioja and another glass of her cheapest and lo and behold, they basically tasted the same. So maybe that's why it's not done like that here, because they don't taste that different. If only I could've sampled more varietals! Talk about a business opportunity.

Many hours and many drinks later, we headed back to the Hotel. Anna and Dee had their own single beds and I had to share the double with Anton, who informed me that tonight it was my turn to snore. That's what happens sometimes if I drink a lot and tonight, I definitely drank a lot! Buenas noches peregrinos :)

"If you follow your bliss, you put yourself on a track that has been there all the while, waiting for you, and the life you ought to be living is the one you are living." 
- Joseph Campbell

Day 11 - slept in Najera - July 8

Up at 10am, down for breakfast in the hotel by 11am, checked out by noon, we all slept in as late as possible. The hotel breakfast was a nice buffet of all kinds of Spanish food but I was back to trying to force myself to eat and having the dry heaves (alone as silently as possible in the bathroom). Maybe it has something to do with brushing my teeth in a different sink each day because that kinda grosses me out. I think it also has to do with some kind of stress, some angst about not knowing where I'll lay my head tonight. Plus all of the exercise and then too much food and wine last night had my system all screwed up again. So much for my restful day in the previous hotel, I was back to being a pilgrim.

A few pilgrims decided to bus it back to Pamplona to watch the bulls run. It didn't take much convincing for the four of us to decide that we were going to bus the next leg forward into Najera. We headed to the autobus station, boarded, and proceeded to do 31 kilometers today the easy way. It was Anton, Anna, Dee and myself and even though we were moving a little slow, we were having a ball. We had all seen the movie The Way and I told them about the Wizard of Oz references to it. We decided that Anton from Ireland (who was still in his late teens) was like Jost, the cowardly lion character from Holland, who had just survived the break-up of an engagement and needed courage, and for whom kindness was an instinct; Anna from Denmark (in her 20s) was like Sarah, the mysterious Canadian tin-man woman who wants to quit smoking and who, communicated in such a beautifully direct way that even though we knew she had the biggest heart, others wondered, and it was an allure for them; Dee (in her 30s) was like Jack the chatterbox scarecrow character from Ireland, overly cognitive and analytical, she couldn't stand that actor and resented the association but then ultimately agreed; and Erin (in her 40s) was like Tom, the oldest one all the way from California who basically just wanted to be left alone, but was like the Dorothy character, suddenly finding herself swept away on this strange yellow-arrow brick road. There was something really nice about our pseudo-hollywood bond!!!!

I looked out of the window and I could see pilgrims on the trail while were speeding past them on the bus and it made me want to get back out there and be part of the Camino. At first I felt like I was cheating but then I decided this was just another part of the adventure along The Way and it made me realize how quickly cars and buses speed by everything. I had a greater appreciation for my efforts on the Camino.

Once we arrived in Najera, we found a private alberge and had a dorm to ourselves (2 bunk beds) which was basically set up in a laundry room. Anton headed off to the church to pray for his brother who had died years ago this very day, and Anna and Dee and I went out and ate Argentinian hamburgers and drank vino tinto (red wine). We wandered around the lovely little town of Najera and wandered in the stores talking to locals. I bought wine and saucisson for tomorrow's journey, and a new journal, and turned in relatively early with ear plugs in. I felt happy to be here right now with these three. Plus it was a good call to rest for a couple of days, my ass was thanking me. 

"A great deal of talent and opportunity is lost to the world for want of a little courage. Every day sends to their graves obscure men whose timidity prevented them from making a first effort." 
- Sydney Smith

Day 12 - slept in Santo Domingo - July 9

Up at 5:30, out of the alberge by 6am, Anton, Anna, Dee and I stopped for coffee and tea on the way out and hit the trail by 6:30am. Same morning ritual though, including one minute to dry heave and two minutes to slather Vaseline on the feet, ugh. At least the rest of my feet were nice and soft. The Compeed on my new blister had fallen off on its own but needed a new application as my foot literally looked like raw meat. I applied one to my old left foot blister too just to be safe, which looked like dried meat. Anton proceeded to sprint ahead, Anna was next in terms of a fast pace and Dee and I lagged behind. The morning sunrise was glorious behind our backs and we set off on a wide country road with medieval stone columns marking some kind of ancient border. The majority of the path today went through remote farmland and some vineyards. It felt good to be back on track!

At times you could see the Camino unfolding in front of you for many kilometers ahead, at other times it disappeared into the vines, or up the hill around the next corner. It was always nice to be able to see where you were headed, the blessed view of a town in the distance gave one the encouragement to ramble on. We passed through Azofra, a tranquil village, and opted not to take an "alternativo" route called the Monastery Route, but instead stopped in the vineyards for lunch. Someone there told us we were in the birthplace of the Spanish language (la cuna del Castellano) in Yuno. I had Dee in stitches when I told her I was in the birthplace of living out a childhood fantasy, that of drinking wine in an actual vineyard whilst on the Camino :)

We chatted with a few other pilgrims (known more by the Spanish name peregrinos) in the only shaded spot along that stretch of The Way, wished everyone a "Buen Camino," and then proceeded to head up yet another big-ass hill. We lost track of each other as I still had a faster pace than Dee, but by the time I got to the top and hobbled by the fancy Rioja Alta Golf Course, I decided I would seek out the first cafe with chairs and umbrellas to wait for her. The golf course was the first recreational place I had seen where people were all dressed up to play a civilized game. As I shuffled by on the outside looking in, I definitely had the feeling of being on the fringe and for a moment, I even felt like a homeless person walking by. Fortunately I didn't have to go far to have one of the best experiences on the Camino yet...

I came through the abandoned resort town and just as I thought I was going to have to leave it and wait for Dee somewhere else, I came across the two ruffian dudes I'd seen at the fountain in Logrono who were sitting in the shade of an old abandoned farmhouse. I sat my pack down near them and said "Hola." Turns out they were French so we could communicate, and one of them spoke a little English. They were Ben and Phillip from Paris and after awhile, we determined that Ben lives a block over from Rue Blomet, the street of my first apartment in Paris!  I offered them some wine and they gave me some nuts and we sat there talking for a good hour. They were doing the Camino with no money and they told me where to go in Finnesterre for the final party if I decided to go on past Santiago. Ben noticed that my shoe was falling apart and he drew a funny face on it, while Phillip gave me a black satchel of fresh lavender to sleep with to help keep the bugs away.

Dee finally turned the corner and I introduced everyone and we headed up to the only cafe in town. I offered to buy them each a beer and we proceeded to hang out for a few hours, drinking, telling stories, and talking about music. Dee's a huge music fan and her friend at home was having a birthday that weekend so Ben rapped this totally cool song for him and she videotaped it. It was awesome!! I still need to get a copy of it from her (I'll post the You Tube link here when I get it!). Ben used to be a rastafarian and when he cut his dreds, which were down to his ankles, he lost 3 kilos of weight. Some people would judge these guys just because they were missing teeth, but I loved them, they had great hearts, and we had the best afternoon hanging out the four of us. Dee also introduced me to Helen and Lawrence from Ireland at that cafe, a couple of retired schoolteachers who I immediately liked too. Later, we all headed on to Santo Domingo. On The Way, Ben and I met Bob from Arizona who was doing the Camino on behalf of all those who couldn't do it, namely his wife who had passed away, and all the people at his home parish. Ben was entranced by Bob, I went on ahead.

As I hobbled into Santa Domingo I saw Anna at the first cafe who was diligently waiting for me and Dee. She told me to check in at the Municipal Alberge run by the Catholics, the first donation-only alberge I encountered, and so I went to find my bed. My feet were absolutely killing me and there happened to be a former pilgrim there in the alberge who was giving people foot rubs and bandages and advice. I waited in line and when it was finally my turn, he wound up being somewhat of an asshole. He didn't like Americans and I said "oh that's a shame have you ever been" and he said "NO." I said "the landscape and the architecture in this part of Spain is very similar to California" and he said "you know nothing of Spain." I said "actually I do, I've been in the South, to Granada and Sevilla and Alhambra and Marbella," I said "it is you who knows nothing about California." I couldn't believe I spoke up like that, it's usually my nature to let people think they're right and not say anything. I like the maxim "Those who know do not say, and those who say, do not know" but for some reason I found my voice and I wasn't going to let this guy bully me. With that display, he sort of sat up and respected me then. Men. He bandaged my feet and told me where to get my hiking boot fixed, which yes was coming apart at the seams, then charged me an astounding 10 Euros for 5 minutes and a couple of bandages. I set out to get my boot glued. The alberge was already very loud with peregrinos and music and roosters crowing (they don't just cock-a-doodle-do in the mornings, they do it during the day and during the night too).

The town was super cute and the cobbler man was helpful in fixing my boot. Eventually Dee arrived and we settled down with Anna for a meal in the main square Calle Mayor. I veered off the usual pilgrim fare and had a fantastic plate of pesto pasta. Afterwards we met up with Esther and Yenny from Holland and Brian from Ireland (in the picture) and later met Alan from Denmark and Paul from Holland who was doing the Camino on bike. Paul was cute and he was checking me out but we just shook hands and said hello. Later when I was back in my bunk, he came in and smiled and it turned out he was sleeping on a bunk in the same dorm as me. I was in a room with about 14 other souls, Dee was in another similar room and Anna was in another similar room. I had walked 21 kilometers today and we were preparing for an early start tomorrow so in went the ear plugs, even though I could hear a large group of Italians partying until all hours of the night, accompanied by the cock-a-doodling of the roosters. "What's with the chickens at a place where people sleep," I thought. I noticed on my passport the Catholics even put a chicken next to St. James on their stamp. Turns out there is a legend in Santa Domingo about chickens, and yes it's even called The Miracle of the Cock! I reprinted the story below...

"The winding streets of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, an ancient town, evoke a sense of history that is intimately linked with the Camino. It owes its inspiration to Saint Dominic of the Road, so called because he effectively dedicated his life to improving the physical route for pilgrims and was responsible for building many of the roads and bridges that we pass along The Way. This was in the 11th century, so they have been rebuilt several times since then but his spirit is as alive today as are the cock and hen in the cathedral coop. 

The chicken coop relates to the story of the Miracle of the Cock. Embellished over the years, it has become one of the more endearing legends along The Way of St. James. Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped at an inn here on their way to Santiago. The pretty innkeeper's daughter had her eye on the handsome lad, but the devout young fellow thwarted her advances. Incensed by his refusal, she hid a silver goblet in his backpack and reported him for stealing it. The innocent lad was caught and condemned to hang. Some accounts suggest the parents continued on their way, oblivious of the fate of their son and on their return from Santiago, they found him still hanging on the gallows but miraculously still alive thanks to the intervention of Santo Domingo. They rushed to the sheriff's house and found him just about to tuck into dinner. Upon hearing the news, he retorted that their son was no more alive than the cock he was about to eat, whereupon the fowl stood up on the dish and crowed loudly. The miracle was not lost on the sheriff who rushed back to the gallows and cut down the poor lad, who was given a full pardon. Indeed so many miracles were ascribed to the intervention of Santo Domingo that the town that came to carry his name was also referred to as the Compostela of Rioja." 
- John Brierley

Day 13 - slept in Belorado - July 10

Up at 6:30, out of the monastery by 7:30am with the usual morning routine. Anna, Dee and I had coffee and tea on the way out of town, but stopped for pastries in Granon, the next village. Paul from Holland must've gotten a late start because he showed up in Granon on his bicycle just as we were finishing our breakfast. He was smiling and flirting with me and everyone was looking at me giggling under their breath. I told them nothing happened, he's just flirting, and when he got on his bike to take off, he said goodbye and that he hoped we would have a chance to meet again, wink wink. I smiled and said I felt the same and just then, as he started to ride away, he was still turning back and smiling at me, when he almost hit the poor woman sitting at the next table. He nearly fell off his bike, shuffled a moment to gain his balance, righted his way, and then turned back again and waved. It was cute and everyone waited a few seconds and then burst out laughing!

I set off with Dee and Anna and absolutely loved walking with them. We had some serious ground to cover today but decided that since we got an early start, we could take breaks along The Way. Anna had the fastest pace, then Dee, then me and once we hit the next town, we waited for each other and soaked up the tranquility of country life. Someone told us that half of The Way today was right by the main busy highway so we enjoyed the little town of Viloria de la Rioja for a long time. It was while we were sitting there that a truck came through town with a loudspeaker saying something to the residents. It sounded to me like "Hola peregrinos, I have Cava" and that made Dee and Anna laugh hysterically because when he repeated his announcement, it did sound like that! They started joking about how I'd get a little scooter and drive along the Camino pouring free Cava for the pilgrims :) As it was, he was making an announcement that he was there for the day to fix any appliances that needed to be fixing. Then, he drove by where we were sitting and in the middle of his spiel, he looked at us and said "Hola" over the loudspeaker, it cracked us up. We lingered awhile longer watching the cutest kittens playing and drinking from the fountain and finally headed out towards Belarado.

It was a long walk and the road was not well marked but eventually we made it. Once again, hobbling into town, up one final hill (why do they do that to us!), Dee and I could barely walk. Anna was waiting for us and we checked into a nice, private alberge that had a swimming pool! It also had a large dining hall and a grocery store there on the premises so one did not need to leave if one did not want to. I immediately took a shower - nice showers here, private, locked, plenty of hot water, no time limit - and changed and headed out to see who else was here. There was Esther and Yenny, who everyone liked, and Brian from Ireland, who wasn't everyone's cup of tea but I liked him. I hung out for awhile, eating and drinking, and then headed to the pool. It was glorious. I finally got some yoga in today too and helped stretch Anna's back. Dee and I gave each other foot rubs and proceeded to relax for the rest of the day. This is when I got my nickname Erecto-Erin because I have an "erector set of nipples," someone said "in honor of Farrah Fawcett's red swimsuit poster," and that during the day, "the #2 pencil erasers can even be seen through a padded sports bra." The last thing I wanted to do was wear a bra at night but it was too obvious in my flimsy little t-shirt so they sent me back to my bunk to at least put on a black shirt. Anna asked "are they always so erect like that" and I said "yes" and Dee said "people pay money to get nips like that" and I said "I wouldn't know." Esther said "it doesn't matter anyway, Paul is already in Burgos" and everyone chuckled. I knew they were teasing me so I played along, but when talk finally turned to our feet, I was glad to be out of the "headlights." These are the things you learn about each other when you're basically at adult summer camp!

We had a tasty pilgrim dinner while watching a slide show of pictures that people had taken along the Camino. There was even a photograph of Paulo Coelho, and several shots of The Way during winter time. I said out loud "I would not want to do this thing in winter time" and everyone agreed. We bought our supplies for the next day and headed to the dorm. We had walked 23 kilometers today and for the first time we were all next to each other (in a room of 16 beds) and this time we were the loud ones, talking and giggling until well into the night. It had been a great day and this place was WAY BETTER than the creaky beds and loud noises from the miracle cocks of last night.

"I don't know what your destiny will be but one thing I do know; the only ones among you who will be truly happy are those who have sought and found how to serve." 
- Albert Schweitzer